The multi-point inspection
every point, and what each one costs you
This is the actual checklist, not a summary of it. You hear the findings before you hear the number, and you can walk after either one.
- Free, always
- Findings before the offer
- No obligation after
- Licensed Ohio dealer
Most buyers inspect your car and then hand you a figure, and the connection between the two is left for you to guess at. We do it the other way round: the inspection is a conversation, you hear what was found while the car is still on the lift, and the number comes after. This page is the checklist itself, so you know what's coming before you arrive.
Why we tell you before we tell you the number
An offer with no explanation is impossible to argue with, which is exactly why so many buyers structure it that way.
If a number arrives with no reasoning attached, your only options are accept it or walk. You can't tell whether the deduction for the tires is fair, because you were never told there was one.
So we invert it. Our team goes through the car, writes down what they found, and walks you through the list. Then the number. Every item you hear about is an item you can question, and some of them you'll be able to answer — the noise is a known thing, the light came on last week, the service was done and here's the receipt.
That conversation regularly moves the figure upward. It can't do that if it happens after the offer.
The inspection, in the order we do it
About forty minutes on a typical car, longer on a truck or anything with a complicated history. You're welcome to stand there for all of it and most people do.
- 1 · Paperwork and identity. VIN matched to the title and to the plate. Odometer read and recorded against the documented history.
- 2 · History report. Pulled and read with you, not summarized at you. Accidents, title brands, prior registrations, reported service.
- 3 · Cold start. Before anything else, because a cold engine tells you things a warm one hides. Noises, smoke, how long it takes to settle.
- 4 · Diagnostic scan. Stored codes, pending codes, readiness monitors and recent resets. A cleared code leaves a trace.
- 5 · Exterior walk. Panel gaps, paint depth where it matters, glass, lights, and evidence of repair the report didn't mention.
- 6 · Tires and brakes. Tread depth on all four, date codes, uneven wear patterns, pad and rotor condition.
- 7 · Interior and electronics. Every seat, every window, HVAC hot and cold, infotainment, cameras, sensors, and both keys.
- 8 · On the lift. The underbody, which in Ohio is where the largest surprises live. Frame rails, brake and fuel lines, exhaust, suspension, and any fluid that's somewhere it shouldn't be.
- 9 · Road test where the vehicle is driveable. Shifts, steering, braking, alignment pull, and anything that only appears above thirty.
What actually moves the number, and roughly how much
People brace for the wrong things. Cosmetic items feel enormous when it's your car and usually aren't. The expensive findings are the ones you can't see.
Here's the honest ranking of what changes an offer in this market, largest first.
- Structural corrosion. The biggest single adjustment we make, and the least visible from standing height. Ohio-specific and covered in detail on the undercarriage page.
- Transmission and engine faults. Large, and larger still when they're undeclared and we find them.
- Accident history with structural involvement. Affects the number even when the repair was done well, because it affects what the next buyer pays.
- Tires and brakes. Four tires at the wear bars is a four-figure adjustment. The next owner pays for them, so a buyer prices them in.
- Active warning lights. Costs more in uncertainty than most of the underlying faults cost to fix.
- A missing second key. Small, real, and cheaper to cut beforehand than to lose in the offer.
- Cosmetic damage. Genuinely near the bottom. Dents, scuffs and stone chips move the number far less than owners expect.
The free condition report
Whatever happens next, you leave with the findings. Written down, itemized, yours to keep.
People use it in ways that have nothing to do with us, and that's fine. It's a negotiating document if you're going to trade the car in somewhere else. It's a to-do list if you're keeping it. It's a disclosure list if you're selling privately, and knowing what a buyer will find is worth more than hoping they don't look.
There is no charge for it and no obligation attached. We'd rather be the people who told you what was wrong with your car than the people who used it as leverage.
What we don't do
Worth being clear, because the phrase "multi-point inspection" means different things at different businesses.
This is a seller-side inspection. It exists to value a vehicle we're considering buying. It is not a pre-purchase inspection for a car you're thinking of buying elsewhere, it isn't a state safety inspection, and it isn't a mechanic's diagnosis with a repair plan attached.
If you need any of those three, a good independent shop is the right call and we'll say so rather than take your afternoon.
If you'd rather we came to you
The whole inspection can happen at your address instead, and for a lot of people that's easier than getting the car across town.
One honest limitation: there is no lift in your driveway. We check the underbody as thoroughly as ramps and lighting allow, which is enough on most vehicles and not enough on a rusty one. Where it matters, we'll say the number is subject to a look on the lift rather than quietly assume the worst.
Everything else — the scan, the history report, tires, brakes, electronics, the road test — is identical.
What to bring
None of it is required to get an inspection. Bring what you have.
- The vehicle and both keys. A missing second key is a real deduction on most modern cars.
- Your driver's license. Required for the paperwork if you decide to sell.
- The title, if you hold it. If there's a loan you won't have it, and that's normal.
- Service records. The most undervalued thing you can walk in with, particularly past 80,000 miles.
- Anything you already know is wrong. Declared faults get priced. Hidden ones get found and then priced anyway, and the second version usually costs you more.
Common questions
How long does the inspection take?
About forty minutes on a typical car. Longer on a truck, on anything with an unusual history, or where the road test turns up something worth a second look. You're welcome to stay for all of it, and most people do — the point of doing it this way is that you hear the findings as they happen.
Does it cost anything?
No. There is no fee, no deposit and no obligation at the end of it. You can hear the full findings, take the written condition report, decline the offer and leave. That happens regularly and nobody will chase you about it.
Is this a pre-purchase inspection?
No, and it's worth being clear about. This is a seller-side inspection that exists to value a vehicle we're considering buying. If you want a car checked before you buy it from someone else, an independent shop is the right place. We'd rather say so than take your afternoon.
What if you find something I didn't know about?
You'll hear about it while the car is still on the lift, and you'll get it in writing whether or not you sell. Finding something isn't a trap — it's the point of doing the inspection properly. What we won't do is find it, say nothing, and quietly reduce the number.
Should I fix things before bringing it in?
Almost never. You'd pay retail for the repair and receive wholesale credit for it in the offer, so most of the money doesn't come back. The exceptions are cheap fixes that clear a warning light or make the car driveable. If you're unsure, ask before you authorize the work and we'll tell you whether it moves our number.
Can I get the inspection without selling?
Yes. Plenty of people come through the Caine Road buying center to find out what they're sitting on and go home with a condition report and their keys. It's the same inspection either way, and it costs the same as everything else here: nothing.
Book the inspection
Send the year, make, model and mileage. We'll come back within 24 hours to arrange it, here or at your address.
Or call (614) 321-1356 · 6780 Caine Rd, Columbus, OH 43235
Related services
The parts of the process people usually look at next.
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How Inspection Works
The category page — what we check and why, at a glance.
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Undercarriage & Rust
The Ohio salt check that produces the largest adjustment we make.
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History & Title Check
Accidents, title brands, odometer and the diagnostic scan.
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Free Vehicle Appraisal
The inspection plus a firm offer you can accept or decline.